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Bryant Family
Vineyard (1992 Debut to 1997 Perfect):
1992 Bryant Family - RP 92 - Over the next year readers should be
on the lookout for some of the 1,000 case production of Don
Bryant's Cabernet Sauvignon from an old vineyard on Pritchard
Hill near the Chappellet Vineyard. Bryant's 1992 Cabernet
Sauvignon offers an impressive black/purple color, rusty
tannin, immense concentration, full body, and enormous
richness in the finish.
1993 Bryant Family - RP 97 - There are just under 1000 cases of
this extraordinary Cabernet Sauvignon produced from a vineyard
on Pritchard Hill, a viticultural area most associated with
one of Napa Valley's most conspicuous
underachievers, Chappellet. Production of Bryant's Cabernet
Sauvignon will drop to just over 600 cases in 1995 as
one-third of the vineyard was recently replanted.
Bryant's opaque black/purple-colored Cabernets are
fermented with wild yeast and bottled without any
clarification techniques such as filtration. They also receive
a pre-fermentation five day cold maceration. This technique is
used by consultant Helen Turley for all the Cabernet
Sauvignons she makes. The 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon has turned
out even better than I predicted last year (and I thought it
was an amazing wine from barrel). It exhibits an opaque
purple/black color, and a huge, fragrant, penetrating bouquet
of minerals, licorice, toast, and remarkable layers of black
fruits. Although extremely full-bodied, the wine's hugeness
and massive concentration come across as beautifully poised,
balanced, and delineated. The tannin is not as sweet as in the
1994, but it is ripe. The quantity of tannin should ensure
this wine's graceful evolution for another 20-25 years,
although it will be easy to drink within 2-3 years.
1994 Bryant Family - RP 98 - A potentially perfect wine, the 1994
Cabernet Sauvignon boasts a fabulous nose of cassis, cream,
blueberries, violets, minerals, and spice. It smells like a
hypothetical blend of a great vintage of L'Evangile, Clinet,
and Mouton-Rothschild. The opaque purple/black color is
followed by a full-bodied wine stacked and packed with fruit,
glycerin, and extract. No component part is out of place in
this formidably endowed, remarkably well-balanced wine. The
purity, richness, sweetness and depth of fruit suggest that
the wine's potential is limitless. Much like its cellarmate,
the 1994 Colgin Cabernet Sauvignon (also made by Helen
Turley), the Bryant Family Vineyard's 1994 should evolve into
one of California's legendary Cabernets. It will age
effortlessly for 25-30 years.
1995 Bryant Family - RP 99 - The 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon is cut
from the same mold as the profound 1996, displaying
astonishing levels of black fruits (the usual suspects -
blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, and cassis),
phenomenal concentration, and virtually perfect balance and
equilibrium.
I recently wrote an article in Food and Wine magazine
itemizing the characteristics of a great wine. They are: 1)
the ability to please both the palate and the intellect, 2)
the ability to hold the taster's interest, 3)
the ability to offer intense aromas and flavors without
heaviness, 4) the ability to taste better with each sip, 5)
the ability to improve with age, and 6) the ability to offer a
singular personality. This wine satisfies
every one of those requirements.
I often wonder if I get too excited about wines such as
this. Yet time is on their side. I truly believe that in 20,
40, or 60 years, when the history of what appears to be a
golden age for California wines is analyzed, these wines, and
the work of their winemaker, will be even more admired and
appreciated by future generations than they are today.
1996 Bryant Family - RP 99 - The opaque purple-colored 1996
Cabernet Sauvignon offers a spectacular, exotic bouquet of
Peking duck skins, blackberry and cassis liqueur, roasted
herbs, and burning charcoal. It is phenomenally intense, with
record levels of dry extract and glycerin. This hedonistic
blockbuster is crammed with jammy fruits nicely buttressed and
framed by adequate acidity and tannin. Drink this marvelous
Cabernet Sauvignon now or cellar it for two decades. This is
mind-boggling stuff!
The wine from this hillside vineyard near Napa's Pritchard
Hill, has already become mythical (1992 was the debut
vintage). This is a wine of world-class quality, and is
certainly as complete and potentially complex as any
first-growth Bordeaux. To date, it has been characterized by
extraordinary richness, complexity, and harmony, as well as
the potential to evolve and improve for 20 or more years.
1997 Bryant Family - RP 100 - The 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon displays
an impressively saturated black/purple color, and fabulously
fragrant aromatics consisting of licorice, toast (the French
call it pain grille), asphalt, violets, blackberries, and
cassis. Full-bodied, staggeringly concentrated, yet
velvety-textured, with perfect integration of acidity, tannin,
and alcohol, this is a prodigious Cabernet Sauvignon from
Bryant. The 1997 is slightly more evolved than the 1996 and
1995 were at a similar stage, and appears to possess even more
glycerin and length. Although the alcohol level reached 15%,
there is not a trace of heat in the finish. This is an
astonishing achievement. When I tasted this wine in September,
it was one of the few times this year (while tasting
professionally) that I swallowed instead of spit.
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