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Chateau d'Yquem: Located in
Sauternes, the highly concentrated sweet white wine of
d’Yquem is made of approximately 80% Semillon and 20%
Sauvignon Blanc grapes affected by Botrytis cinerea or
“noble rot”. The process by which grapes are harvested
is unique. They are picked in waves, where only the
grapes that are both botrytised and have attained
maximum concentration are selected. To ensure quality,
d’Yquem is not produced in every year and part or all of
the harvest may be sold off. Highly concentrated with an
awesome balance between sweetness and acidity, it
is not uncommon for a bottle of Chateau d’Yquem to age
gracefully for 20, 50 or even 100 years!
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Chateau
d'Yquem (Legendary d'Yquem):
1811 d'Yquem - RP 100 - What is so remarkable
about this series of wines is that the 1811 and 1847 Yquems
are the two greatest Yquems I have ever tasted, eclipsing my
Yquem reference point, the 1921. Both were unctuous, thick,
extraordinarily complex wines with remarkable quantities of
botrytised, honeyed fruit that dominated their aromatics and
flavors. As with all of these ancient vintages, the bottles
were authenticated by Christie's Michael Broadbent. The 1811
Yquem, with its dark gold color, awesomely intense, sweet
nose, unctuous, thick, fabulous flavor extraction, pinpoint
precision, and a finish that lasted a minute or more, is the
kind of wine on which Yquem's reputation is based. It was
liquified Creme Brulee - an astonishing wine. Remember, this
was the famous "year of the comet" vintage. (Incidentally,
readers looking for a few good chuckles should rent the movie
video, Year of the Comet, a wine-dominated comedy that I
highly recommend.) Longtime readers know I am a fruit fanatic,
and if a wine does not retain this essential component, it is
not going to receive a satisfactory review.
1847 d'Yquem - RP 100 - The 1847 Yquem would
have received more than 100 points if possible. The wine is
huge and massive, with a surprisingly youthful color,
remarkable honeyed and botrytised flavors, staggering
richness, and a finish that lasted 40+ seconds. The question
that must be asked is whether the great modern day Yquem
vintages will last as long? I say, yes, though I doubt any of
my readers will live long enough to find out what the 1975,
1976, 1983, 1986, or 1989 will taste like at age 148!
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