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Chateau Margaux:
2000 Chateau Margaux - RP 100 - Bottled in late
November, 2002, the 2000 has turned out to be a colossal
example of Chateau Margaux that is tasting even better from
bottle than it was from cask. Only 40% of the crop made it
into this 2000 Margaux, a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and
10% Merlot. Stylistically, it is somewhat of a hybrid between
the succulent, opulent, fleshy 1990, and the more delineated,
structured, cooler climate-tasting 1996. The 2000 possesses a
saturated ruby/purple color to the rim as well as an
extraordinarily promising nose of creme de cassis intermixed
with white flowers, licorice, and hints of espresso and toasty
oak. There is great intensity, compelling purity, a
multi-layered, full-bodied palate, and a finish that goes on
for nearly 70+ seconds. Bottled naturally, with no filtration,
it is a monumental example of the elegance and power that
symbolize this extraordinary vineyard. A tour de force in
winemaking, many of my colleagues predicted, far earlier than
me, that it would be the "wine of the vintage." It is
certainly one of the wines of the vintage, but there is plenty
of competition, even at this lofty level of quality.
Absolutely awesome!
1990 Chateau Margaux - RP 100 - For me, the 1990
Margaux continues to be the quintessential example of this
chateau. In addition to being profoundly concentrated, its
ethereal bouquet of sweet black fruits, cedar, spices,
flowers, smoke, and vanilla is remarkably well-formed and
intense. In the mouth, there is not a hard edge to this
classic wine, which is super-concentrated, soft,
silky-textured, and opulent. It displays an opaque ruby/purple
color, a compelling bouquet, and exquisite layers of flavors
that cascade over the palate without any notion of toughness
or coarseness. The acidity is low, although sufficient enough
to provide vibrancy and focus. This wine's significant tannin
level is remarkably well-concealed by the wealth of fruit.
Although still an infant in terms of development, this
fabulous Margaux is already drinkable. There have been so many
great vintages of Margaux under the Mentzelopoulos regime that
it is almost inconceivable that the 1990 could outrank the
1982, 1983, 1985, 1986, and 1995, but, in my opinion, it
possesses an extra-special dimension.
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