Cheval Blanc: Planted with approximately 57% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot, and small parcels of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, Cheval Blanc produces approximately 6000 cases of the Grand vin and 2500 cases of the second wine, Le Petit Cheval. The wines of Cheval Blanc have a wonderful, and unique quality of putting on significant weight with age. In great years, Cheval Blanc produces a wine ranking among the best in Bordeaux.

Cheval Blanc (Great Years):

1947 Cheval Blanc - RP 100 - Having a 1947 Cheval Blanc served out of an impeccably stored magnum twice in three months during the summer of 1994, and on another occasion, from an extraordinary jerobaum, made me once again realize what a great job I have. The only recent Bordeaux vintage that comes even remotely close to the richness, texture, and viscosity of so many of these right bank 1947s is 1982. What can I say about this mammoth wine that is more like port than dry red table wine? The 1947 Cheval Blanc exhibits such a thick texture it could double as motor oil. The huge nose of fruitcake, chocolate, leather, coffee, and Asian spices is mind-boggling. The unctuous texture and richness of sweet fruit are amazing. Consider the fact that this wine is, technically, appallingly deficient in acidity and excessively high in alcohol. Moreover, its volatile acidity levels would be considered intolerable by modern day oenologists. Yet how can they explain that after 47 years the wine is still remarkably fresh, phenomenally concentrated, and profoundly complex? It has to make you wonder about the direction of modern day winemaking. Except for one dismal, murky, troubled, volatile double-magnum, this wine has been either perfect or nearly perfect every time I have had it.

2000 Cheval Blanc - RP 100 - This closed, backward blend of 53% Merlot and 47% Cabernet Franc boasts a saturated purple color along with a reticent but striking bouquet of blackberries, blueberries, truffles, and mocha. In spite of its tightness, aeration reveals scents of licorice, menthol, and saddle leather. Opulent and full-bodied, with low acidity, sweet tannin, and a 60-second finish, it is unquestionably as profound as the 1990 and 1982. I still believe the 2000 has the potential to be the most compelling Cheval Blanc since the mythical 1947 and 1949, but patience is required. It should merit a three digit score in 7-10 years, but it is closed at present.

1982 Cheval Blanc - RP 99 - Revealing considerable amber in its dark plum/garnet color, this intensely fragrant 1982 is somewhat of a paradox in that the front end suggests full maturity, but the mid-palate, finish, and overall texture denote a closed wine. A gorgeously sweet entry displays flavors of caramel, roasted coffee, jammy red and black fruits, coconut, and smoke. It is fat and full-bodied, with considerable tannin, structure, and muscle in the finish. Flamboyantly rich and precocious early in life, it is going through an awkward stage where the tannin is present, but it is also sexy, juicy, and formidably-structured.

1990 Cheval Blanc- RP 98 - In contrast to the 1989, the 1990 is increasingly sumptuous with each additional tasting. The wine possesses all the hallmarks of a hot, ripe year - low acidity, super-ripe, nearly over-ripe fruit, an opulent, oily texture, great sweetness of fruit, and a long, voluptuously-textured finish. In the most recent tasting, I almost mistook it for Le Pin given its showboat-like nose of coconut, toasty new oak, and gobs of smoky, blackcurranty, and cherry fruit. The wine is full-bodied, rich, and concentrated, with layers of extract, and well-concealed tannin. I am increasingly convinced that this is the most profound Cheval Blanc since the legendary 1982. Because of its fleshy, low-acid character, the wine can be drunk, but it is still youthful, with a deeper purple color than the more mature-looking 1989. It should offer exotic opulence for at least another 15-20 years. A compelling Cheval Blanc!