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Ducru (Great Years):
2005 Ducru Beaucaillou - RP 97 - The 2005 Ducru
Beaucaillou is a 10,000-case blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon
and 33% Merlot (they used to produce 18,000-20,000 cases). It
is an exceptionally powerful wine with a dense purple color,
superb intensity, and a beautiful, sweet nose of spring
flowers, raspberries, blueberries, graphite, and creme de
cassis. Full-bodied with fabulous concentration, exceptionally
high tannin, good acidity, and massive layers of richness that
build incrementally on the palate, this monumental effort is
more structured than their outstanding 2003. It may be the
finest wine produced at this estate since the 1982 and 1961
Ducrus.
2003 Ducru Beaucaillou - RP 96 - One of the most
compelling Ducru Beaucaillou’s made in the last quarter
century is the 2003 (which is also the first vintage to be
packaged in an impressive heavy glass bottle with a special
long cork). A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot,
it is a powerful, tannic, blockbuster effort revealing a
liqueur of mineral-like component intermixed with creme de
cassis, raspberry, and flower characteristics, and an
atypically high 13.5% alcohol. Having firmed up considerably
since bottling, it exhibits tremendous definition, weight, and
concentration. It is a wine for patient connoisseurs.
2000 Ducru Beaucaillou - RP 94 - Floral notes
intermixed with raspberries, black currants, minerals, and a
hint of new oak emerge from the dense purple-colored 2000
Ducru-Beaucaillou. The wine is sweet, dense, and medium to
full-bodied, with undeniable elegance and finesse as well as a
finish that lasts for 45+ seconds. A wine of remarkable
symmetry, balance, elegance, and minerality, it is the Lafite-Rothschild
of St.-Julien.
1996 Ducru Beaucaillou - RP 96 - I tasted the 1996
Ducru Beaucaillou on four separate occasions from bottle in
January. The 1996 is long, with a deep mid-palate. It also
reveals tannin in the finish. This wine is remarkable. It is
muscular, concentrated, and classic. Bottled in late June,
1998, it exhibits a saturated ruby/purple color, as well as a
knock-out nose of minerals, licorice, cassis, and an
unmistakable lead pencil smell that I often associate with top
vintages of Lafite-Rothschild. It is sweet and full-bodied,
yet unbelievably rich with no sense of heaviness or
flabbiness. The wine possesses high tannin, but it is
extremely ripe, and the sweetness of the black currant,
spice-tinged Cabernet Sauvignon fruit is pronounced. This
profound, backward Ducru-Beaucaillou is a must purchase. It
will be fascinating for readers who own the 1996 to follow the
evolution of this exceptional vintage.
1995 Ducru Beaucaillou - RP 94 - This wine is of
first-growth quality, not only from an intellectual
perspective, but in its hedonistic characteristics. More
open-knit and accessible than the extraordinary 1996, Ducru's
1995 exhibits a saturated ruby/purple color, followed by a
knock-out nose of blueberry and black raspberry/cassis fruit
intertwined with minerals, flowers, and subtle toasty new oak.
Like its younger sibling, the wine possesses a sweet, rich
mid-palate (from extract and ripeness, not sugar), layers of
flavor, good delineation and grip, but generally unobtrusive
tannin and acidity. It is a classic, compelling example of
Ducru-Beaucaillou that should not be missed.
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