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Harlan
Estate Wine Ratings (Perfection):
1994 Harlan Estate - RP 100 - What can I say about the 1994? I
have tasted the wine for three consecutive years, and each
time it satisfied all of my requirements for perfection. The
opaque purple color is followed by spectacular aromatics that
soar from the glass, offering up celestial levels of black
currants, minerals, smoked herbs, cedar wood, coffee, and pain
grille. In the mouth, this seamless legend reveals full body,
and exquisite layers of phenomenally pure and rich fruit,
followed by a 40+ second finish. While accessible, the 1994
begs for another 5-7 years of cellaring. It should easily last
for 30+ years. Every possible jagged edge - acidity, alcohol,
tannin, and wood - is brilliantly intertwined in what seems
like a diaphanous format. What is so extraordinary about this
large-scaled wine, with its dazzling display of aromatics and
prodigious flavors and depth, is that it offers no hint of
heaviness or coarseness. Harlan's 1994 comes close to
immortality in the glass.
Much of this wine will be sold to the winery's mailing list
customers. If you miss out on the 1994, try and get on the
waiting list for future vintages. While perfect wines are few
and far between, history has taught me that wineries with such
lofty aspirations as Harlan Estate will continue to push the
envelop of quality.
1997 Harlan Estate - RP 100 - The 1997 Harlan Estate is one of the
greatest Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines I have ever tasted. A
blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the rest Merlot and
Cabernet Franc, this enormously-endowed, profoundly rich wine
must be tasted to be believed. Opaque purple-colored, it
boasts spectacular, soaring aromatics of vanilla, minerals,
coffee, blackberries, licorice, and cassis. In the mouth,
layer after layer unfold powerfully yet gently. Acidity,
tannin, and alcohol are well-balanced by the wine's unreal
richness and singular personality. The finish exceeds one
minute.
2001 Harlan Estate - RP 100 - Rivaling the 1994 and 1997, the 2001
Harlan Estate is a perfect wine for my palate. Tasted on four
separate occasions, this offering, which spent 28 months in
oak before being bottled unfined and unfiltered, is an
extraordinary effort that comes across as a hypothetical blend
of Mouton-Rothschild, La Mission-Haut-Brion, and Montrose. A
synthesis in style between the more elegant, delineated,
structured 1994, and the port-like, over-the-top, viscous
1997, this extraordinary 2001 was the “wine of my trip,” even
though I had already had it from bottle several months
earlier. An inky/purple color is accompanied by a stupendous
bouquet of lead pencil shavings interwoven with coffee, new
saddle leather, melted licorice, cedarwood, black currant
liqueur, and violets. Explosive richness, a marvelous,
full-bodied texture, and fabulous purity, concentration,
complexity, and nobleness are the stuff of legends.
2002 Harlan Estate - RP 100 - I believe the 2001 Harlan Estate and
2002 Harlan Estate’s 100 point scores represent the first time
I have given perfect ratings to two successive wines produced
in the New World. However, the styles of the two wines
couldn’t be more different as each reflects its particular
vintage. The 2001 is a classic, long-lived, backward wine with
most of its potential concealed at present. On the other hand,
it is impossible to resist the flamboyant, extroverted 2002
Harlan Estate’s charm, richness, and overall seductive
personality. This profoundly complex wine exhibits notes of
cedar, black currant liqueur, scorched earth, smoke, and
graphite. Incredibly broad, sweet, full-bodied, opulent, and
voluptuous, it literally has everything one could ever want in
a great Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine. Already drinkable, it
promises to evolve effortlessly for 25-30 years. This
prodigious offering is worth mortgaging the farm!
Bill Harlan, winemaker Bob Levy and consulting oenologist
Michel Rolland have achieved spectacular results in an
amazingly short time at this estate in the western hills
overlooking the Oakville corridor. The introduction of a
second wine, The Maiden, has allowed this team to ratchet up
the level of the grand cru. From over 40 acres of vineyard,
only 1,500-1,600 cases of Harlan Estate and 800 cases of The
Maiden are produced. In order to keep quality at such an
extraordinary level, I suspect production will never go much
higher.
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