|
Leoville Las Cases (Legendary Vintages):
1982 Leoville Las Cases - RP 100 - Tasted three
times over a two month period, this youthful yet profoundly
complex wine gets my nod as the finest Leoville-Las-Cases ever
made. It reveals massive proportions yet extraordinary purity,
elegance, and balance. This dense ruby/purple-colored 1982
still looks and tastes as if it were 5-8 years old. The nose
offers up blazingly well-delineated, pure aromas of creme de
cassis, cherry jam, minerals, and toasty new oak. This
unctuously-textured, gorgeously rich, pure,
super-concentrated, low acid effort concludes with a 45+
second finish. There is still tannin to shed in this
unbelievably fresh, lively, full-bodied, vibrant wine.
1986 Leoville Las Cases - RP 98 - The 1986 Leoville-Las
Cases, which Delon continues to believe is his finest vintage
in the eighties (even eclipsing the 1982), still exhibits a
black/purple color with no signs of age. The nose offers up
aromas of exceptionally ripe cassis fruit intertwined with
scents of vanillin, minerals, and spices. The wine is
full-bodied, exceptionally well-delineated, and phenomenally
concentrated. Still unevolved and youthful, this is one of the
most profound Leoville-Las-Cases, but for my palate, it
remains a notch behind both the 1982 and 1996.
1996 Leoville Las Cases - RP 98 - Having previously
rated it nearly perfect, I was apprehensive of a letdown about
tasting the 1996 Leoville Las Cases once it had been bottled,
but that concern was quickly dismissed once I put my nose in
the glass. A profound Leoville Las Cases, it is one of the
great modern day wines of Bordeaux. This wine's hallmark
remains a sur-maturite (over-ripeness) of the Cabernet
Sauvignon grape. Yet the wine has retained its intrinsic
classicism, symmetry, and profound potential for complexity
and elegance. The black/purple color is followed by a
spectacular nose of cassis, cherry liqueur, pain grille, and
minerals. It is powerful and rich on the attack, with
beautifully integrated tannin, massive concentration, yet no
hint of heaviness or disjointedness. As this wine sits in the
glass it grows in stature and richness. It is a remarkable,
seamless, palate-staining, and extraordinarily elegant wine -
the quintessential St.-Julien. Despite the sweetness of the
tannin, I would recommend cellaring this wine for 7-8 years.
2000 Leoville Las Cases - RP 99 - This wine has put
on weight and, as impressive as it was from cask, it is even
more brilliant from bottle. Only 35% of the crop made it into
the 2000 Leoville Las Cases, a blend of 76.8% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 14.4% Merlot, and 8.8% Cabernet Franc. The wine is
truly profound, with an opaque purple color and a tight but
promising nose of vanilla, sweet cherry liqueur, black
currants, and licorice in a dense, full-bodied, almost
painfully rich, intense style with no hard edges. This
seamless classic builds in the mouth, with a finish that lasts
over 60 seconds. Still primary, yet extraordinarily pure, this
compelling wine, which continues to build flavor intensity and
exhibit additional layers of texture, is a tour de force in
winemaking and certainly one of the great Leoville Las Cases.
In another sense, it symbolizes / pays homage to proprietor
Michel Delon, who passed away in 2000. Michel has been
succeeded by his son, Jean-Hubert, another perfectionist.
|