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Lynch Bages (Great Years):
1961 Lynch Bages - RP 95 - Still a spectacular wine,
the 1961 defies mortality. It has been at its peak for nearly
15 years, yet it shows no signs of losing its fruit and drying
out. The color is a dark garnet with orange/amber at the edge.
The profound bouquet has the magnetic allure that leaves great
Bordeaux unmatched for complexity. Sweet notes of dried
fruits, herbs, tobacco, smoke, and roasted meats are followed
by an opulently-textured, thick, nearly viscous wine with high
glycerin, ripe, jammy fruit, and an intoxicating combination
of glycerin, extract, and suppleness. The wine holds in the
glass without cracking up, and has a good 40-45 second finish.
There is no telling how much longer this 1961 will retain its
magic, but it is still a classic.
1982 Lynch Bages - RP 94 - This is another Lynch
Bages that has never gone through an awkward, disjointed stage
where it completely shut down. The color remains a dense ruby
with some lightening at the edge. Thick, juicy, succulent
notes of creme de cassis intermixed with dried herbs,
vanillin, minerals, and anise leap from the glass. Fleshy and
full-bodied, with the vintage's voluptuous texture and low
acid, fruit/glycerin-dominated flavors well-displayed in its
full-bodied personality, this wine tastes young, but isalso
ready to drink.
1989 Lynch Bages - RP 95 - Consistently backward and
dense, with enormous potential, this admirable wine will not
be ready for prime time drinking for another 5-7 years. The
color is not quite as opaque as the 1990's, but reveals more
purple and no lightening at the edge. Hugely concentrated
flavors have just begun to offer up a nose of cedar and creme
de cassis. Powerful and muscular, with high tannin and superb
concentration, this is Lynch Bages at its biggest and most
beastly. However, everything is in balance for a stunning
evolution.
1990 Lynch Bages- RP 94 - This wine has provided
terrific drinking since it was bottled. It may turn out to be
a vintage such as 1982, which never shut down. The dark
plum/purple color reveals some lightening at the edge. A big,
sweet, plum, licorice, beef blood, and jammy cassis-scented
bouquet with smoked herbs and new wood in the background soars
from the glass. Enjoyable and accessible, this low acid,
concentrated, velvety-textured wine continues to offer
sumptuous drinking. It is one of my favorite Lynch Bages
vintages to drink now, although it will be even more stunning
in 10-15 years.
2000 Lynch Bages - RP 95 - An utterly profound
Lynch-Bages, this wine continues to remind me of a
hypothetical blend of the 1990 and 1989. Interestingly, when I
asked Jean-Michel Cazes to rank his top four vintages of
Lynch-Bages, he ranked the 1989 first, followed by three
vintages that he said were essentially equivalent in quality -
1990, 1996, and 2000. The 2000 Lynch-Bages exhibits a dense
purple color, loads of glycerin and extract, big, muscular,
sweet creme de cassis notes, with hints of new saddle leather,
earth, and tobacco leaf. The 2000 is forceful yet plush, with
a thick, juicy, succulent mid-palate, ripe tannin, and a long,
layered finish. I know it will be tempting to pull corks on
this wine in its youth, but it really will not hit its stride
for 7-10 years and will last for at least 25.
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