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Pavie (2000 to present):
2000 Pavie - RP 100 - Give Gerard Perse credit.
People thought his numerous assurances that 2000 was the
greatest Pavie ever produced were premature as well as
arrogant. However, after tasting this extraordinary blend of
60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
(made from low yields of 28-30 hectoliters per hectare) six
separate times in 2003, it is unquestionably one of the most
monumental wines Bordeaux has ever produced. Bottled in March,
2003, about nine months later than other 2000s, the color is
an opaque purple, and the bouquet offers up notes of liquid
minerals, blackberries, cherries, and cassis intermixed with
spice box, cedar, and white flowers. On the palate, it
exhibits a massive display of richness and extract, yet with
pinpoint delineation and vibrancy as well as a 60+ second
finish, this is the kind of phenomenal wine that Perse's
critics were afraid he might produce - a no-compromise,
immortal wonder that represents the essence of one of
Bordeaux's greatest terroirs. Life is too short not to own and
consume the 2000 Pavie.
2001 Pavie - RP 96 - One of the candidates for wine
of the vintage ... again, the 2001 Pavie, from a magnificent
south-facing vineyard planted primarily on limestone soil, is
a blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet
Sauvignon. After a six week maceration, it spent nearly 24
months in new oak prior to being bottled unfined and
unfiltered. Some Bordeaux brokers think it might be even
better than the 2000 Pavie, but I do not agree. The
inky/ruby/purple-colored 2001 exhibits a tight but promising
nose of crushed stones, a liqueur of blackberries, cherries,
and black currants, and subtle smoke and licorice in the
background. Powerful, with impressive elegance, fine harmony
among its elements, a multi-layered texture, it has a finish
that lasts for 50+ seconds. There is considerable tannin, but
it is well-integrated. Give it 3-4 years, and drink it over
the next two decades. A profound effort for the vintage, it is
an example of a perfectionist proprietor pushing the envelope
of quality.
2002 Pavie - RP 94 - While not as legendary as
Pavie’s 2003, 2001, 2000, 1999, or 1998, the 2002 is one of
the top wines of the vintage. Its deep plum/ruby/purple color
is followed by aromas of fruitcake, cranberries, cherry
liqueur, crushed rocks, and subtle oak. Savory, full-bodied,
remarkably concentrated, layered, and forward for a Pavie, it
should be accessible in 3-4 years, and will evolve
effortlessly for two decades.
2003 Pavie - RP 98 - This 92-acre vineyard, which
enjoys an impeccable southern orientation, is composed of
limestone on the upper slopes, clay and limestone in the
middle, and sand and clay at the base. Proprietor Gerard Perse,
who has done a brilliant job since acquiring the estate in
1998, continues to push the envelope of quality to higher and
higher heights. Planted with 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc,
and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, the grapes receive kid glove
treatment with hand-harvesting into small plastic lugs, two
triage tables, and aging for 28 months in 100% new oak that is
purchased in advance, then air-dried and coopered according to
Perse’s specifications. In short, the man is a perfectionist,
and the quality of all the estates he owns has soared
dramatically. The 2003 Pavie (7,080 cases; 13.5% alcohol) is
closest in style to the 2000, but slightly more evolved and
exotic. Its dense plum/purple color is accompanied by an
extraordinary perfume of charcoal, creme de cassis, melted
licorice, espresso roast, and blackberries. The wine, which
hits the palate with a dramatic minerality, comes across like
a hypothetical blend of limestone liqueur intermixed with
black and red fruits. With massive depth, richness, and body,
this tannic 2003 should be forgotten for 4-5 years, then
enjoyed over the next four decades. The integration of
acidity, tannin, and wood is flawless, and the wine is
incredibly pure, rich, and intense.
2004 Pavie - RP 95 - A brilliant effort from
proprietors Chantal and Gerard Perse, Pavie’s 2004 (7,050
cases) exhibits an inky/ruby/purple color, a surprisingly
soft, forward style for this hallowed terroir, full-bodied,
and concentrated creme de cassis flavors intermixed with
cherries, truffles, and subtle smoky wood notes.
Beautifully-textured as well as expansive, this may be the
most developed and forward Pavie made by Perse since his
acquisition of the property in 1998.
2005 Pavie - RP 98 - Now that the 2005 Pavie is in
the bottle, I would place it, qualitatively, a notch below the
prodigious 2000, and a few notches above the blockbuster 2003.
There are 7,000 cases of this 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc,
and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Disregarding the blatant
jealousy of his success as well as his “outsider” status,
proprietor Gerard Perse has pushed the envelope of quality,
fashioning first-growth quality wines from one of Bordeaux’s
finest terroirs. In St.-Emilion, only Ausone can be considered
to have greater potential in terms of micro-climate and
terroir. Pavie’s 2005 exhibits a thick-looking purple color to
the rim as well as an exquisite perfume of blueberry and
blackberry liqueur, unsmoked cigar tobacco, crushed rocks,
damp earth, and hints of truffles and incense. The vineyard’s
limestone soils have provided massive concentration, a
laser-like precision, fresh, zesty acidity, and massive
tannin. Despite the wine’s enormous concentration and
intensity, there is a lightness to its style. As Perse has
made clear, he is trying to produce modern day versions of
such great vintages as 1921, 1929, 1945, and 1947, wines that
lasted 50 or more years. I do not understand why Perse
receives so much criticism. In the blind tastings of each new
vintage conducted by the Grand Jury European, Pavie usually
wins against 100 or so other great Bordeaux. As they say, the
truth is irrefutable - this is one of the world’s most
outstanding wines, and the 2005 Pavie should take its place
among the greatest achievements of Bordeaux in the last 50
years.
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