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Silver Oak Cellars Wine Ratings (Selected Wines):
1991 Silver Oak Napa Valley - RP 95 - The 1991 Cabernet
Sauvignon Napa Valley cuvee, which will be released in
September, 1995, exhibits classic cassis notes without the
subtle herbaceousness of the Alexander Valley wine. It is a
multi-layered, fabulously rich, intense wine with full body, a
velvety texture, and oodles of fruit, glycerin, and soft
tannin in the finish.
Silver Oak's Cabernet Sauvignons are among the most popular
wines of California. I have heard mindboggling stories about
the huge throng of people, ranging from lawyers in three-piece
suits, to show girls and Hell's Angels on motorcycles, that
shows up at the winery on the day Silver Oak releases its
newest vintage. What a testament to the immensely popular
style of these wines! Production has increased to
approximately 10,000 cases of the Napa Valley cuvee and 30,000
cases of the Alexander Valley Cabernet. However, 65% of the
production is sold within California and 60% of the total
production goes directly to restaurants. Beginning in 1992,
the Bonny's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, a sometimes great,
sometimes controversial wine because of its overt herbaceous
character, will be blended with the Napa Valley wine, thus
ending the nightmarish distribution problems created by the
tiny production of this single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.
I have often pondered why Silver Oak's Cabernets are so
popular. Certainly Justin Meyer has always believed in
harvesting very ripe, physiologically mature fruit. Moreover,
he has never spared any expense in utilizing a high percentage
of new oak. For example, the Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is
aged for thirty months in 100% new oak and the Alexander
Valley wine is aged for thirty months in 50% new oak and 50%
used barrels. It seems to me the reason for the success of
these wines is that Meyer has always recognized (1) that wine
is a beverage of pleasure, (2) that the wine's texture is of
considerable significance, and (3) that excessive
acidification of his Cabernets would compromise their
character as well as hedonistic value. This philosophy has
ensured a voluptuous, rich, chewy style of Cabernet, without
the shrill, tart, high acid, compact, lean, unpleasant
character of many other California Cabernets. Justin Meyer's
winemaking decisions have resulted in lavishly rich, exotic,
crowd-pleasing Cabernets that can drink fabulously well young
but have the cunning ability to age well for 12-15 or more
years.
1995 Silver Oak Napa Valley - RP 95 - A blend of 96% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 4% Cabernet Franc, the 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa has turned out even better than the 1994. It possesses a
more saturated ruby/purple color, as well as a more flamboyant
and exotic bouquet. Moreoever, it seems less evolved.
Full-bodied and pure, with layer upon layer of concentrated
black fruits, smoke, cedar, and toast, it should drink well
for 16-17 years.
The Napa offerings from Silver Oak tend to be less herbaceous
and more oriented toward Cabernet Sauvignon's black fruit
spectrum than the Alexander Valley cuvees. They are every bit
as exotic and ostentatious as the Alexander Valley cuvees, but
more classic, tannic, perhaps longer-lived, and slightly less
approachable.
Silver Oak wines are supple, explosively fruity, and deliver
copious quantities of glycerin, extract, and richness wrapped
in generous quantities of American oak. Critics have argued
that the wine does not age particularly well, but that has
largely been proven a myth. I doubt it will last as long as
Chateau Montelena, Dunn, or other Napa Cabernets with a 30-40
year aging potential, but these wines have a broad window of
drinkability, being delicious at release, and able to sustain
their fruit and character for 15 or more years.
1997 Silver Oak Napa Valley - RP 94 - The 1997 Cabernet
Sauvignon Napa looks to be one of the finest wines made by the
winemaking team of proprietor Justin Meyer and
winemaker/viticulturist Daniel Baron. The 1997 Napa is an
impressive effort. A blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and the
rest 5% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, this wine has a
flamboyant nose of fruitcake, licorice, Asian spice, black
currants, and toasty wood. Deep, opulent, viscous, intense,
chewy, and thick, it is a classic Napa Cabernet Sauvignon made
in an all-American oak lovers' style. It should drink well for
12-15 years.
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