There are 350 cases of the 2005 Chardonnay Reuling Vineyard, which comes from the Goldridge soils of this Sonoma Coast site. This Chardonnay comes from a clone suitcased over from the Montrachet vineyard in Burgundy. There is no doubting the liquid minerality, striking honeyed citrus, white currant, hazelnut, and brioche notes are more French than California, but the power and richness are pure New World. An absolutely remarkable Chardonnay that is certainly one of the top half dozen or so Chardonnays I have ever tasted from California, this is a stunningly proportioned, profound wine that should drink beautifully for 5-7 years, if you can resist it that long.
Mark Aubert is on the move, leaving Colgin Winery in favor of working for the Bryant Family Vineyard, while at the same time producing some of the world’s greatest Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. He seems to have a plate filled with both potential and stress. The bad news is that one of his suppliers decided his Chardonnays were just too profound for the Quarry Vineyard, and will no longer sell him fruit from that source, and in 2006, there was so little Reuling available, that cuvee was not made either. In short, there are two fewer Chardonnays for the 2006 vintage! Nevertheless, those who got on the mailing list and secured some of his 2005 Chardonnays have some of the finest Chardonnays ever made in California at their beck and call. Of course, these are made from old Wente clones of Chardonnay, given full malolactic, aged on their lees, and bottled with no clarification.